Wednesday, September 30, 2009

D'Bronx: 3904 Bell & 7070 W 105th

Wednesday, September 30, 2009
D'BronxI'm not sure what the history of D'Bronx is in Kansas City, but the 39th Street and Bell location has all the hallmarks of a local institution. Occupying a couple storefront spaces, the interior is bustling and little crusty. It features well-worn hardwood floors, utilitarian seating, a chalkboard menu and lots of graffiti on the stone walls.

It always seems fairly crowded and boisterous. You walk through the dining area to place your order at the front counter. After paying, collecting napkins and silverware and procuring a beverage you find a seat in one of the little dining areas and wait for your food to come out. And wait. And wait.

Yes, it takes a while to get even a slice here, and I assume that's because they put everything together to order, not to mention the fact that they do a high volume. Pizza is one of those foods that you should expect to wait for unless you're getting it from under a heat lamp.

D'Bronx

But it actually tastes very good, despite looking a little haphazard. The toppings are applied in great quantity but don't really melt into the slice; they kind of rest there in a little mound.

D'Bronx

The relatively thin crust manages to stay quite crispy and is a very pleasant texture. In short, this is good pizza. The "D'Bronx Special" is a veritable shit-ton of ingredients. A slice will cost you $5, but it is a huge meal, easily worth the money.

D'Bronx Slice

The Overland Park location of D'Bronx gets kind of a bad rap because the atmosphere is so completely different (i.e. lamer) than the original. It is located in a strip mall at 105th and Metcalf, the same complex that houses the serviceable Korean spot, Choga. Despite what you may have heard, this location serves up the same delicious slices and sandwiches as its KC counterpart.

D'Bronx

I'd even venture to say that the service is better in JoCo; there are a number of folks running food and clearing tables. On each of my visits, the owners or managers were there fetching refills for people. Moreover, the food runners don't shriek at the same annoying, earsplitting volumes, undoubtedly because it is much quieter. Of course, the atmosphere really is terribly boring compared to the 39th street original, and the clientele is distinctly more douchesque.

Corned beef and swiss sub

Always a fan of the Reuben I tried the version at the Overland Park D'Bronx and while it was tasty, I can't say it's close to the best I've had. While they should be lauded for not falling into the dreaded Marble Rye trap, their rye bread is barely recognizable as such. It is a well-prepared, grilled sandwich with plenty of melted cheese but in my mind a reuben should be a gigantic sandwich, overflowing with corned beef. The reuben at D'bronx is good but not great.

D'Bronx

All in all, I'm a fan of this place. I know opinions differ as to the quality of their pizza, but I personally find it quite pleasing. The crust remains crisp despite the preponderance of toppings. While I don't always approve of pizza that requires a fork, this is good stuff, though not quite the New York style that their name implies.

D'Bronx has a whole host of sandwiches, salads and soups as well, including matzoh ball soup which is a rarity in this area. My impression is that everything on the menu is of high quality and well-prepared. The 39th street location is far superior in terms of ambience but both outposts will do when it comes to food.

12 comments:

m.v. said...

I tried OP and Crown Center locations,was surprised to find some Jewish Deli items.

sallymander said...

They used to have fantastic potato knishes on their menu. I wish they'd bring them back.

The D'Bronx special sandwich is my favorite on their menu.

smh said...

You haven't lived until you've had the Chicken Parm sandwich. Outstanding.

Can't vouch for the Kansas location. 39th Street is so great, why go anywhere else?!

Papias said...

I may have to give D'Bronx another try, maybe the OP local. When I checked out the CC once, I thought the slice was dull and greasy.

On the upside, I checked out Rosati's (College & 69 Hwy - Corp Woods) lunchtime slices. I was pleasantly surprised the size and price. I was hungry and one slice of the meat special was just enough. I got out with a slice and a big Coke for under 5 bucks. But alas, they don't have anyplace to sit, except outside.

Nuke said...

Have had pizza by the slice, and whole pies (carry out for team lunches) from the 39th St location and always liked it well enough.

I would definitely give the OP location a shot as it is close to work, but nobody ever thinks of it for lunch and I seldom go anywhere if eating alone.

As for Reubens, I gotta agree about marble rye. It's OK I suppose and looks purty but growing up we always used a thick dark rye. Oh and you are right, while the sandwich should be manageable it should be thick and kinda scary looking. If it's done right it doesn't need any condiments like mayo or thousand island or whatever.

MrJayhok said...

If I was on death row, my last meal would be a Bell Street Bomb Sandwich and a slice of D'Bronx Special on the side. I'd be so full nothing they inject me with would have any effect.

Shane said...

this is a KC institution that I still haven't been able to sample, for whatever reason. This will not be the case for long.

Dan said...

As for Reubens, I think you hit the nail on the head with your review of the sandwich at Oak 63.

Brian said...

I love the original, but have been disappointed by the OP location, aside from lacking the charm and atmosphere as the original, I find the food isn't as good.

Plus I've heard rumors that the kitchen at the OP location engages in some unsanitary practices. Whether it's true or not, I don't know, but I steer clear just in case.

Catherine VandeVelde said...

I'm a big fan of the Bell Street location. The chicken noodle matzo ball soup is really, really good.

Fat Doctor said...

The original site used to have sour cream apple pie in the cooler up front. Delicious. All I remember about D'Bronx is that pie, the reuben (which was a lot thicker than the photo from the OP site on your blog) and the incredible pizza. Sigh. OK, now I know where I'm lunching tomorrow!

The Cybernetic Entomologist said...

If you want a Reuben sandwich that is death by corned beef, check out Giuseppe's in Colorado Springs. It's ginormous.

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